Rachel's Blog from Japan

Touristing in Tokyo offered the greatest challenge so far to us small town dwellers. It proved to be quite the juxtaposition with its maze of subway systems, crushing crowds, high-rise districts, small, winding neighborhoods, and ancient temples and castles.  The old and the new all crammed together into a vastly sprawling city.  We spent four days exploring as much as we could, from Tokyo Disney to the Imperial Palace.  We were very fortunate to be able to stay with the parents of my Japanese teacher, Reiko and Hisawa Suzuki, and they showed us the utmost in Japanese hospitality.  While in Tokyo, the weather ranged from searing heat, 33^o C, to rain and oppressive humidity.  But, like determined tourists, we forged on and visited many of our selected sites.

The highlights of the trip varied for everyone.  The kids were thrilled with our 50 story hotel near to Tokyo Disney. And, of course, Tokyo Disney, gave them a kick.  They also enjoyed playing state-of-the-art video games at the Sony building in Ginza, and going up to 150m in the Tokyo Tower.  Larry wanted to remember the Japanese version of western toilets, so there was quite a bit of camera work in the bathrooms.  I enjoyed staying with the Suzuki’s and all of the fabulous meals that they shared with us, visiting the Tsujiki fish market, and visiting the Asakusa kannon.

The Suzuki’s took us to dinner one evening and it proved to be the most exotic eating we had done so far.  We sat in a private room at a chabudai (low table) and they ordered the dinner.  We all ate the same meal that consisted of 6 or seven courses.  Besides the number of courses, the food display was awe-inspiring.  There was miso soup in a gourd shaped ceramic bowl with a bamboo leave cover which we poured into tiny bowls, a  course with a peeled cherry tomato in a Chinese lantern flower, a rice ball wrapped in a leaf, a small bowl with tuna, vegetables and shitake mushrooms all beautifully displayed in a bamboo cage, individual grills with a small fish, shredded diakon raddish and some type of green leaf, there was also ginger mouse with one adzuki bean on top, a few other courses that I am forgetting, and of course rice, pickled vegetables, sake, green tea.  It was all exquisitely presented, amazingly filling for the small size of each course, and very enjoyable.

Luckily, we had our fancy dinner with lots of raw fish prior to visiting the Tsukiji fish market.  This market is the central auction and wholesale market for all the seafood in Tokyo.  The market begins operation at 4:30 every morning with the different types of seafood being auctioned off until about 8:30 am.  Then wholesaling and retailing begin.  Tourists used to be allowed to view the auction, however, just this June, due to distractions and too many run-ins with the vendors, that was curtailed.  Despite only being able to view the wholesale operations, it was easy to see that Tsukiji was a throbbing marketplace where tourists come second after the sellers and buyers.  Every sort of sea creature imaginable is available.  I could identify urchin (the Japanese eat the insides – called uni), octopus, squid, eel, shrimp, scallops, clams, roe, and fish of every shape and size.  Seafood is consumed raw, smoked, dried, grilled, boiled and any other way imaginable.  The market, however, deals only in fresh, raw seafood.  Merchants were cleaning, gutting and filleting the merchandise that was displayed in styrofoam containers with paper price tags.  The main form of transportation for the workers was on carts with large, horizontal steering columns.  These guys sped around the market’s tiny isles, and didn’t stop for anyone.

The visit to the Asakusa kannon was very thrilling.  It was my first foray around Tokyo by myself and the boys.  We had to maneuver through numerous subway lines and through unfamiliar neighborhoods.  It was encouraging to be able to make our way given our limited language skills.  The Asakusa kannon, named Sensoji, is known for its large gate (call Thunder gate because it houses images of the god of wind and god of thunder). One walks down a long shopping street crammed with small vendors selling, food, crafts and all sorts of souvenir trinkets.  In front of the temple is a large incense cauldron.  Devotees crowd around the cauldron rubbing the smoke from the incense into their clothes and skin, apparently to bestow good health. While this was certainly not the most beautiful temple that we have visited, it did have the greatest number of tourists, both Japanese and foreign.  

Tokyo proved to be a great trip for all.  We are particularly grateful to the Suzuki’s for the help and generosity that they showed us.  It was a great way to visit this huge city!